AFN UNITS
When water with an acid PH (below 7.0) is passed through the specially processed hardbead-like magnesia filter bed the PH value is increased to 7.0 or slightly higher. By neutralizing the free carbon dioxide in water, the red water tendency is corrected and renders it less corrosive and stable. Neutralizing filters have application in water treatment problems involving iron removal where a PH increase is desired. The filter bed is basically a Calcite/Magnesia oxide which is soluble in proportion to the acidity of the water.
It is necessary to replenish the bed periodically.
Q-"How do I know if my water is acidic?
A-The signs of acidic water (if you have copper tubing) are blue
or green stains in the bottom of your sink or tub. If these appear or if
you suspect you have acidic water, then a simple pH test will tell you
if your water is acidic or not. You can get a pH test kit at most any pool
supply store. If your water has a pH of less then 7 then it is considered
acidic and should be treated.
Q-"How often will I have to add neutralizing media?"
A-It depends on how acidic your water is, and the amount of water
that you use. It's best to re-check your pH level once every six-twelve
months. A low priced pool pH test kit is usually all that you will need.
When the pH level starts to drop then it's time to add media. Some customers
don't have to add any media for a few years and some need to add it in about
12 months. When your neutralizer starts to not neutralize as much,
it's probably time to add media.
Q-How easy is it to install one of the acid neutralizers?"
A-For a handy person generally it isn't too hard. You do need access
to a drain and you should place the acid neutralizer in a place near your
well tank or water main. We have an instructions page below that you can
read.
ALPHA SEDIMENT REMOVAL FILTER
HOW IT WORKS
AFS UNITS
The filter medium is a granular surface. When water containing suspended
matter is passing through the filter unit the solids are removed throughout
the filter bed.
Periodic back washing flushes out accumulated sediment or dirt and
regrades the filter bed.The filter medium is not consumed in the sediment
removal process.
No special conditions necessary for proper use.
ALPHA TASTE & CHLORINE FILTER (CARBON)
HOW IT WORKS
AFC UNITS
The black granular high quality filter carbon is distinguished by its rugged grain structure and high porosity. This highly porous internal structure efficiently absorbs and retains taste, odor, and colorcomponents from water as it passes through the filter bed. (Area of porosity = 3,000,000 sq. in. per lb. of activated carbon) A very common problem is that of chloro-organic compounds which are produced by the chlorination of a water supply for bacterial kill. These chloro-organiccompounds impart tastes and odors which are much stronger than residual chlorine, howeverthey are removed along with the free chlorine residual by passing the water through an activated charcoal filter. Periodic back washing is necessary to eliminate the accumulated suspended matter and regrade the filter bed. It is necessary to replace the carbon filter bed when the capacity for taste and odors is exhausted.
CONDITIONS NECESSARY FOR PROPER USE
1. Water to be filtered should preferably be free of suspended matter.
2. The water to be filtered should be relatively free of iron for maximum service life in taste, odor, chlorine and color removal.
3. In installation where a water softener is also in the system, the carbon AFC filter should follow the water softener.
Q-"Lately I have noticed a sulphur smell in my water?"
A-If you notice the smell only in your hot water then most likely
your water heater is the culprit. In many electric water heaters the sacrificial
anode rod is made of magnesium. The rod is design to draw minerals, calcium,
Hardness etc. To increase the life of the heater. As the anode rod breaks
down (which is what it is designed to do), it can create hydrogen sulfide.
A magnesium rod can be replaced with an aluminum rod to eliminate this
problem. It can also be caused by sulphate-reducing bacteria which thrive
in the warm environment present in a water heater. To reduce the bacteria,
you may need to add chlorine or hydrogen peroxide into the tank (approx.
1 pint/40 gallons of water), re-pressurize it,run 2-3 gallons of hot water
at each fixture and then let it set for at least one hour, with overnight
being better. This will help clean the tank and piping of bacteria. While
the mixture is non-toxic at this strength, run a hot water tap the next
day until it runs cold then wait an hour and drain the water heater. Last,
check the temperature of the hot water as soon as the burner shuts off.
If necessary, lower the temperature to 125 degrees. This limits the growth
of odor-causing bacteria, limits the formation of scale, is safer for everyone
using hot water, and it lowers the operating costs as well.
If you notice the smell in both your hot and cold water then it's probably
from the well water. Hydrogen Sulfide is formed from decomposing underground
deposits of organic matter like decaying plants. It can occur in deep or
shallow wells and is the result of bacterial action that reduces sulfates
in water to hydrogen sulfide. The simple solution for this is shock chlorination
to the entire water system - starting from the well, all the way through
the distribution lines. Chlorine should be kept in the system for several
hours, preferably overnight. If the smell persists than water treatment equipment
will be needed.
ALPHA IRON & SULPHUR ODOR FILTERS
HOW IT WORKS
AFE UNITS
AIFN UNITS
When water containing sulphur, iron or manganese passes through the granular filter medium, the active insoluble catalyst which it possesses causes the iron or manganese to precipitate in the form of the hydroxide in the mix tank. Then, this flocculent material is filtered out by the granular oxidizing catalyst filter bed. Periodic backwash flushes out the accumulated iron or manganese and the filter bed is again readyto perform its function the filter medium is not consumed in the iron or manganese removal.
CONDITIONS NECESSARY FOR PROPER USE
IRON REMOVAL
1. A P.H. of 6.8 or higher
2. Oil must not be present.
Note: pH correction can be accomplished by using a neutralizing filter.
FAQ:
Q-My water has an orange tint to it. What can I do?
A-The first thing we would recommend would be to have the water tested. The orange tint is usually the result of a high iron content.
Q-"My water has a high iron content. How can I reduce this?"
A-We get questions about iron more than most other water problems.
The method for removal depends on how much iron is in your system
and what type (Ferric or Ferrous) For removal of dissolved iron
you will need either a water softener or an iron removal system. A water
softener will remove up to 6 ppm of iron max, but if used this way the resin
will need to be cleaned every once in a while with a resin cleaner like Rust
Out or Rez-Up. The less iron the softener has to remove than the better longevity
of the water softener resin. If yours is higher than 5 PPM then you will
need an iron removal system with special media. Different media would be
used for different mineral conditions. Sometimes aeration, Model AIFN can
be used. It's not necessarily better than ion resins, but you wouldn't need
to regenerate the system with any chemicals. We highly recommend that you
have a recent water analysis done by us or with a local
expert before ordering any water treatment system.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Filter should be installed as close as possible to a floor drain, laundry tub, or wherever drain is to be run. However, the installation should comply with all plumbing codes.
Some things to consider:
